Method and apparatus for making footwear



Marh 2o, 192s. 1,663,457

F. J. MacDONALD METHOD AND APPARATUS FOR MAKING FQOTWER Filed April 9; 1923 6 Sheets-Sheet 1 /EHDH, 75E/7k X7/95270175@ 5y M March 2'0, 1928. 1,663,457

F J, MacDONALD METHOD AND APPARATUS FOR MAKING FOOTWEAR' UAG.;

March 2o, 192s. 1,663,457

F. J. MaODONALD METHOD AND APPARATUS FOR MAKING FOOTWEAR Filed April 9. 192 s sneawsheet s In/Ewa. JEH/7A -.//VHEZYMH/a March 20, 1928. 1,663,457

F. J. MacDoNALD METHOD AND APPARATUS FOR MAKING FOOTWEAR Filed April a, 1925 March 20, 1928.

1,663,457 F. J. MaCDONALD METHOD AND APPARATUS FOR MAKING FOOTWEAR Filed April 9, 1923 6 Sheets-Sheet 5 7- /Obum March 20, 1928. 1,663,457

F. J. MwDoNALD METHOD AND APPARATUS FOR MAKING FOOTWEAR Filed April 9. 1923 6 Sheets-Sheet 6 Patented Mar. 20,. 1928.

UNIT-ED STAT-EST PATENT oFF-ler..

FRANK J. MAcnoNALD, or Axaoiv,` orne, AssIeNon 'rerun n. F. eoonmcH'coMrANY,

- or NEW Yoan, N. Y.. a conronArIoN or NEW Yoan.

'METHOD AND arrma'rus Non MAKING roorwnan.

Application led pril 9, 1923. Serial No'. 630,796.

This invention relates to apparatus for applying ieces of's'tock to lasts in the `Inaking of ru ber footwear and is an improvement 'upo'nthewinvention described and claimed in-m .copending application Serial No. 582,884, led" August 1'9, 1922.

`My general object' in the present invention is to provide improved apparatus for making rubber footwear. More specific objects IU are to provide, in such apparatus, simplicity of construction and operation, accuracy of manipulation of the work, and' faster production. A w Y Of the accompanying drawings: l Fig. 1 is a side elevation, as viewed from the left of Fig. 2, of a shoe-uppering machine embodying my invention in its preferred form.4 f

Fig. 2 is a 4front elevation of thesame;

in section, of a part of the same, on a arger scale. Jfrom the 4same view-.point as in -Fig. 2,l showing a stock-holding member' and means for actuatingftlie same. l

Fig. 4 is a side ,elevation of as viewed from the right of Fig. 2.

Fig. 5 is ,a diagrammatic side; elevation, from the same viewpoint a's `in Fig. '4, of 'an automatic valveactuating mechanism.

ofFig. .2.

Fig. 7 is a of Fig. 4, with 'an upper in place and partly.` broken away. Fig. 8 isa detached, perspective view of la set of camsand their cam-followers adapt'- ed to actuate certain 'part-s of the machine.

Fig. 9 vis a vertical section on line 9.9 of Fig. 2. 4o

of a toe-stock-stretching -and manipulating device. y Fig. 11v is a plan, view of the. worlg and adjacent parts of the machine,-show1ng a heetstook-applying and cutting mechanism in operative positions.

Fig. 12 is a similar plan view showlng a seam-roller in operative position.'

General. description.

Fig. 3 is av fragmentary elevation, art-lythe A'machine Fig. Gis a vertical section on lline 6-6.

horizontal section, on line 7 7 Fig. 10 vis a plan view, onta large scale,-

comes to themachine withv a .rubberized fabrlc shoe-lining and an insole in place thereon, and for presenting said last in an in-` verted positionA to the upper, from above, and pressing it downward against the upper while the latter is held only by its margins, to cause the st-retchable upper to take the form of and be fitted about the last; mean-s for fitting the `toe-margin of the upper about the edges of the sole'; meansfor twlsting' the wings or v'heel portions of the upper and applying them successively to the heel portionsof the last; means for trimming excess stock from said heel-portions of the upper as theylare successively applied to the last; and means for 'rolling'the seam formed at the junction of said heel portions.

Referring tothe drawings, 10 is a frame comprising, near its top, a horizontal plate 11 (Fig. 9) formed with a slot 12 permitting the free passage of a last-holding arm 13, ofv irregular shape, loosely 'pivoted on aiock- .clamping member-ladapted to receive and 'straddle-the ankle portion of 'a last presented thereto from`fabo've. 17 (Fig.- 9) is a pull spring connecting the arm 13 with the plate- 11 and adapted yieldingly'7 lto hold the forked.

. membe'rvl'in an elevated position so that it will firmly engage the last when depressed by the latter.

For'rcceivl-ng the last from the hand of the operator, and presenting it to the up er, `which latter is held .by means hereina ter described, an armv18 is'fsecured upon the .Laet-holding amd mechanism. l,

shaft 14. and provided at its outer end with a` suction-head1. 18 comprising a pair. of

vacuum-applyingmembers or suckers A19, 19,

preferably of soft rubber, as shown clearly in Fig. 6, said suckers being adapted to hold, by engagement with its sole face, the adhesively covered last 20, and said suckers being in communication, through suitablepassages 21, 21 in thehead 18", with a flexile vacuum pipe 22 leading from .an ejector 23 operatively connected with a (pressuref Huid 'supply line 24 and provide with a ,shut-oi valve 25 and a muier 26.

The suckers 19 traverse a hollow suctionapplying structure comprising an outer wallplate 27 having a form complementary lto the sole of the last, to seat the latter, and a perforate edge-wall plate 28 following the outline of the sole of Ithe last at a short distance inward therefrom and disposed substantially perpendicular to the sole, said` plate 28 being thus adapted, by suction applied through its apertures, to reduce the air pressure on the adjacent side of the margin of an upper applied to the last as hereinafter described and so suck said margin inward about the sole-edge of the last. This is most clearly shown in Fig. 6, the upper being designated 29. The interior of the suction-applying structure 27-28 is in communication, through a passage 30 through the head 18, with a flexible vacuum pipe 31 leading from an ejector 32 4) operatively connected with the pressure-fluid supplyf line 24 and provided with -a,shutoiI valve 33 and adapted to discharge into the muliler 26.

The valves 25 'and 33 are so provided with operating mechanism, including a hand lever 34 common to the two, as shown clearly in Fig. 5, that when the handle portion of said lever is in its extreme right hand position, wit-h respect to F ig. 4, the valve 25 for the last-holding suckers 19 is open and the valve 33 for the upper-sucking structure 27-28 closed, as shown in full lines in Fig. 5, this position concurring with the mounting of the last on the head 18a by the operator; when the handle end of the lever 34 is moved leftward to the middle part of its range both valves are open, as shown in dotted lines in Fig. 5, this position concurring with the sucking in of the upper margin while the suckers 19 continue to hold the last; and when the handle end of the lever is further moved leftward both valves are closed, so that the ejectors cease functioning and so release the uppered last from the head 18. 3 5 is a cam stud on the lower arm of the hand-lever 34, adapted to be engaged by a cam stud 36 on a disc 37 secured onla shaft 38, for automatically effecting the move# ment of the hand lever from its right hand 'to its middle position, at the appropriate time in the cycle of operations, to cause the margin of the upper to be'sucked in about the sole of the last.

To swing the arm from its elevated, last receiving position of Figs. 1, 2 and 4 to its lastpresenting position of Fig. 9, and back agaln, at proper times, the rock-shaft 14 is provided with a rocker-arm 39 connected by ,a pitman 40 with a spur-gear 41 secured upon a shaft 42, said gear being adapted to be driven intermittently, from one limit to the other of the pitmans range of movement, by an interrupted gear 43 secured upon a timing drum 44, the latter being secured upon the shaft 38. The pitman 40 is adapte y to start and stop the last slowly in its swinging movement, which is of advantage in preventing violent contacts and affording smooth operation. l

Devices are provided for receiving the upper 29 from the hands of the operator and holding it in position to receive the last as the latter, on the arm 18, is presented from above, said devices comprising a pedestal 45 mounted upon the plate 11 and supporting an inclined plate 46, recessed or out away to accommodate the toe portion of the work and having suckers 47, 48, 49 mounted on its upper face and adapted to hold by suction the toe-margin of an upper laid thereon, said suckers being in connnunication, through flexible pipes 47, 48, 49a respectively, with an ejector 50 operatively connected with the pressure-fluid supply line 24 and provided with amuliier 51. The ejector 50 is provided with a shut-off valve 52 having an operating mechanism-including a hand lever 53 adapted to open said valve when its handle portion is moved by hand toits left hand positionwith respect to Fig. 1, following the placingof the upper, and to close said valve when thrown in the opposite direction. A stud 54 on the lower arm of said lever is adapted to be engaged by a. stud 55 on a. disc 56 secured upon the shaft 38, to close said valve automatically and so release the upper when the upper applying operation has been completed and the last is ready to be raised.

The small sucker 48, at the toe of the work, is secured in fixed position upon the plate 46, whereas the longer suckers 47 49, curved toapproximately the contour of the sole margin of the work, are pivotally secured to said plate at theirtoe ends, as shown most clearly in Fig. 10, and adapted to be swung toward each other by the pull of the u per as the last passes downward between hem and so -depresses the middle part of the upper and draws it over a roller structure 57 hereinafter described. 47", 49b are pull springs interposed between the suckers 47, 49 and respective brackets 47", 49c adjustably mounted upon the plate 46, said springs being adapted to resist the pull of the upper as the latter is drawn onto the last, to provide an approximately uniform tension of the upper, notwithstanding the continued downward movement of its leading portion, and to return sa'id suckers against said brackets, whose inner ends are adapted to serve as stops, when their suction is broken. f

The roller structure 57 comprises a helical spring 58 inserted in a rubber tube 59, this flexible assembly being loosely mounted upon a U-bent rod or shaft 60, as shown most clearly in Fig. 10, and the latter being seiso cured at its ends in brackets 61, 61 projectin inward from the plate, 46,- sojthat said` ro ler structure followsthe outlinev of the recess of said plate and is `adapted to roll upon its curved axis as the upper, resting upon it, is pulled downward between the arms ofthe U by the descending last, the

Piate i6.

even stretching of the upper beingthereby promoted and the pull ofthe upper b eing transmitted to the suckers 47, ,48,- 49 in av direction substantially parallel with the For supporting the middle portion of the upper 'while its toe portion is being attached to the suckers 47, 48, 49 and its wings or heel 'portions to members hereinafter described, a.

pair o f upper-supporting plates 62, 63v

ting them to fall lawayas the last approaches) said rock-shafts aref provided with respective rocker arms'62, 63 connected'by chains 64, 65 with respective levers 66, 67 secured to vertical rock-shafts 68, 69jjournaledin suitable bracketson the frame 10 and provided at their lower.- ends with respective rocker-arms 70, 71 adapted to be actuated by cams hereinafter described on the timing drum 44. Each of the upper-supporting plates 62, 63 is provided on its upper face with a gauge-block, 62, 63, 'shown best in Fig. 7, to facilitate the positioning of the upper thereon. l

Heel-stretching and applying devices.

For receiving the heel portions of the upper as it is placed in the machine and subsequently twisting and stretching said heel portions and applying -them successively'to the last and joining their edges in a lapped seam, a pair of metal heel-stretchers,` 72. 73,

are faced, except a cutting zone along their. seam margins," with fabric, 72, 73, adapted to be kept tacky by applications of cement,

to adhesively anchor the heel margins of the upper, and said heel stretchers are provided with shank plates by which they are hinged at 7 2", 7 3" between upwardly extending forks formed on blocks 74, 75 and provided with xhinge-springs 72, 73 urging them from their horizontal, upper-receiving positions of ,Figs 1, 2, 4 or'7 to their vertical upper-applying positions of Figs. l2, 11 and 12.- The eel stretchers are of curved form, as 'shown f most clearly in' Fig. 7, so as to conform to the vertical outline of the heel of the last. The blocks 74, 75 are provided with respectuating said arms.

projecting throu h bearings at the ends of upwardly extending arms 78, 79, the latter` being rotatably and slidably mounted upon a shaft 80 and adapted to be successively swu away from the heel of the last and slid toward the middle line of the machine, against the force-of oblique springs 78", 7 9b (F 7) as to both the swinging and sliding movement, to stretch the heelportions of the upper and apply them progressively to tive stems 7 6,77, rotatably mounted in and the last. They are adapted '-then to be swung f 'back toward the last by their respective s rings, 78", 7 9? to further apply the upper t ereto,"and then further shoved, along the face of the last, after the Astock has been severed alon the edge of the heel stretcher as shown iny igs. 9 and 11, to apply theseam margins of the upper, `with a wiping action directed toward the free edge of the .mar in, cams hereinafter described being provi'ed,

actingagainst the springs 7 8", 7 9?, for so ac- 4 Between the forks of the respective blocks 74, 75 are slidably mounted plungers 81, 82 (Fig. 2) ada ted to act against the stem plates of the' eel stretchers 72,73 to raise the latter from vertical, upperapplying po? sition to horizontal, upper-receiving position, to slideh under said 4stein plates to lock the heel-stretchers in the latter position, and

4'to be withdrawnfrom such under-lying position to permit the heel-stretchers again to be swung, by gravity and thehi'nge springs 7 2, 73, to vertical, upper-applying position. Said plungers are providedwith .respective stems 81, 82 having their outer ends secured in guide-blocks 83, 84' slidably mounted-on the projecting outer ends ofthe stems 76, 77 ofthe blocks 74, 5 (see Fi'g."2). 85, 86 are compression springs on the stems 81", 82, interposed between the blocks 74, 75- and the guide .block's83, 84,`being thus adapted to urge the lungers toward their retracted po-v 'sitions t or driving them in the opposite direction, to raise thev heel stretchers to horizontal, upper-'receiving ositions concurrently with the raising ot e upper-supporting plates 62, 63, arms 87, 88 are secured to the lvertical shafts 68, 69 and adapted to act against the guide-blocks 83, 84.

iio

In order that the lieel-sti'ctchers may first i present the heel-Seam margins of the upper to the last adjacent the latters sole and then apply said margins* progressively toward the shank of the last, the blocks :74, 75, being pivoted by their stems 76,77 on the arms 78,

9,*are provided with downwardly extending fingers 74", 7 5, urged against stops 74". 75b on the arms 78, 79 by pull springs 74, 75 connecting said fingers with said stops,

- Heel-trimming device.

For trimming excessstock from the heel margins of the upper, an electrically heated knife 89, shown in operation in Figs. 9 and slidably kiittin 11, is ad'ustably secured on the, upper end of a. vertical bar 90 slidably mounted in the ends of a pair of horizontal arms 91, 92 secured on a vertical rock-shaft 93 mounted in suitable brackets projecting from the frame of the machine, said shaft being adapted to be turned by means hereinafter described to swing said arms toward and from the work to present and retract the knife, and said bar being adapted to be raised and allowed to fall, to cause the knife 89 to cut the stock successively against the outer faces of the heel stretchers, 72, 73, as shown in Figs. 9 and 11, by cam dogs, .90",

90c mounted between the two sections of the v drum 44, said cams acting against a lug 90a formed on said bar. 94 is an arm extending horizontally from the upper end of the bar 90 and having-a forked outer end on a vertical guide-bar 95 y rising from t e upper arm 91, to prevent twisting or cramping of the bar 90 by the force' of the knife against the work. 96

(Figs. 4 and 9), is a stop-pin on the bar 90- adapted to abut the lower arm 92 to limit they downward movement of the bar 90 and knife 89 thereon.

The means for swinging the arms 91, 92 toward lthe work comprises a cam yarm 97 (Figs. 2 and r8) rotatably mountedl on the vertical rock-shaft 93 and having a projection or heel 97a on its hub portion acting against a spring-backed plunger 98 in a? clamp 99 on' said rockshaft, said cam arm being adapted to be actuated by a cam hereinafter described, to swing the knife supporting structure toward the work, and said spring-backed plunger being adapted to permit yielding play of the arms 91, 92 to allow the knife to follow the contour of the work. To stop the clamp 99 and the cam arm 97 against the rotative force of the plunger 98, their hub portions are formed with interlocking portions-as shown at 99 (Fig. 2).

'For swin ing the knifesupporting structure away rom the work, -a torsion-spring 100 is mountedaupon the shaft 93 and interposed operatively between a collar 101 on said shaft and one of the'latters brackets.

Seam-rolling devl drum 44. The supporting and actuating' means for the roller 102* correspond to those for the trimming-knife l89 as above described, the cam arm for swinging tle roller mounting toward the wo'rk being shown at 105 and the torsion spring for retracting it at 106. y

Draving cmd i/mzag mechanism.

For driving the timing drum `44, secured upon the shaft 38, said drum is provided with 'a spur gear l107 meshed with a pinion 108 loosely journaled upon a belt driven main drive shaft 109 and formed with a. clutch hub 108a (Fig. 2) adapted to be engaged by \a clutch member 109n splin'ed on said shaft and. provided with a shipper lever 11,0 secured on a. rock shaft 111, the latter being adapted to be turned, to engage the clutch, by depressing a treadle 111 secured to its front end or by lifting a handle 112, at the rearof the machine, saidA handle being secured to a. vertical linkconnecting an arm 113 on shaft 111 with a guide arm 114 pivoted to the upper part of the machine frame, and the arm 113 being connected with the base of the machine by a pull spring 113 p adapted to urge the shaft 111 toward the declutched position.

The clutch, when engaged, is adapted to 4 be latched in engagement by a finger 115 (Fig. 2) projecting from the shaft 111 and vadapted to be held in an elevated position by a latchpawl 116 secured on a shaft 117i.

which also has secured thereon a treadle 118 extending to the front of the machine and a rearwardly extending arm118a joined by a sliding pivot 119 with the front arm of a two armedtreadle lever 120 fulcrumed on'a bracket at 121, its rear yarm extending to the rear yof the machine, so that depressing the treadle portion of either of said treadle levers, against the force of a pull spring 118b (Fig. 9) connecting the arm 118a with the hase of the machine, will withdraw the latch pawl 116 and permit the spring 113a to throw out the clutch 1081-1098.

122 is a. brake arm secured to the shaftA -secured to the pinion 108. Secured on the shaft 117 is an upwardly projecting cam arm 125 adapted to be actuated l'by a stud 126 on the drum 44 at the end of each cycle of operations, towithdraw the latch pawl 116 and so stop the machine.

For assuring that the pitman gear 41 on the sha-ft 42 will bestoppcd and held aocurately in position to be remeshed with-its -interrupted driving gear 43 on the drum 44,\ 'a disc 127 is secured on said shaft 42 and provided on its side face withtwo oppositelypositioned. studs 128, 129, adapted in succession to be caught by a notched pawl 130 pivoted on the. plate 12 at 131 and yieldingly held m position to engage'said studs by a pull sprlng 131 (Fig. 9) connecting it with 0am and their operation.

Referring especially to Fig. 8, where the principal cam devices of the drum 44 are shown in detached perspective, 134, 135 arel cams which are carried onthe end faces of the drum and are adapted simultaneously to actuate the arms 70, 71 (see Figs. 1 and 4) on the vertical shafts 68, 69 respectively to lift the upper-supporting plates 62, 63 and at l'the same time turn the heel-stretchers from vertical, upper-applying position to horizontal, upper-receiving position, and to permit a reverse movement of said plates andv heel stretcherS, by gravity and the force of the springs 72C, 7 3C, 75, 76, when said cams pass from said-arms 70, 71.

Cams 136, 137 on the cylindrical face of the vdrum are formed with simultaneously-. l

acting, rising faces 136, 137, followed b cylindrical faces 136", 137", adapted to li t respective arms 7 8a, 79el projecting from the hubs of the heel-stretcher arms 78, 79V to swing said heel-stretcher arms simultaneously and holdthem forward, heelward with respect to the last, against the force of the oblique springs 78, 79M The cam 137 is formed also with an oblique, upstanding facel 137b adapted to slide the adjacent heelstretcher arm 79 nearly to the center line of the last concurrently with its heelward swinging movement imparted by the camface 137, andwith a circumferential, up'- standing face 137c adapted to hold said arm at such station'while the face 137x passes from under the arm 79a and permits the heelstretcher to be swung against thelast by the obliquely disposed pull spring79b (Fig. 7) ,y

connecting the hecl-stretcher arm 76 with a part of the frame, the oblique position of ing suchas to act in opposition to the several faces of the cam 137, as

- to both the swinging and the sliding movement of said heel'stretcher arm. The cam 137 also is formed with an oblique, upstanding. face 137d`in continuation of the face 137, for a final, short, inward shove of the heelstretcher along the heel face of the last to .straighten out and apply the heel-seam margin of the upper after it has been trlmmed,

- during the functioning of the cam-face 137,

by the knife 89 acting against the outer face of the heel stretcher as shown in Figs. 9 and 11. Then follows a rising face 137 and a cylindrical face 137h on the cam 137, for swinging the heel 'stretcher away from the last and so holding it while an oblique, up-

standing face,137 permits the spring 79" to gradually return the heel stretcher arm, by

v sliding it upon t-he shaft 80, to its voutermost .71 also raises the upper-supporting plate 63,

by way of the chain 65, concurrently with the lifting of the plate 62 by similar mechanism at the opposite side of the machine.

The cam 136, for actuating the other heelstretcher, 72, is formed with an oblique upstanding face 136b adapted, by contact with the arm 78a, to slide the heel stretcher arm 78 about half way inward while the first arm, 79, is s hoved nearly all the way, then with an upstanding face 136c adapted, to

hold it there while the first-acting heel stretcher fulfills its mission and is withdrawn. Then follows a cam face 136l for further sliding the second-acting heel stretchery nearly to itsy innermost position, and a face 136e for holding it inward while the passing of the face 136x from under the arm 7 8,l permits the heel stretcher to swing against the last, and also whileA the trimming knife 89 acts against said heel stretcher. Then follows a short, oblique, upstanding face 136t for giving .the final shove to straighten out and apply the heel-seam margin, and appropriate faces for returning the heel-stretcher to upper-receiving position as 1 formed with portions 138, 138", adapted successively to act against the arm 97 to swing said structure, against the force of spring 100, while the straight cam faces 137% 136",

in succession, are functioning.

The cam for similarly swinging the seam- `roller-supportimg structure, against the force of spring 106,after both heel stretchers have been withdrawn, is shown at 139 (Figs. 1 and 8). The cam dogs 90", 90, are mounted be tween'the two sections of the drum 44 and adapted successively, as the respective heelstretchers function, to act against the lug 90il on the knife bar 90 to run the knife 89 up the heel of the work, the knife being then returned downward b its own wei ht and that of its supporting ar. The simi ar cam dog 104 for actuating the seam roller 102 by .contact with the lug 104 on its bar 104, is likewise mounted betweenfthe sections of the drum. The weight of the bar and parts can lis ried thereby serve to return it downward after said dog passes from said lug.

Operation.

In the operation of the machine, assuming it be at rest in the positions of Figs. 1, 2 and 4 and the main drive shaft to be idly turning, an operator presents the last 20 to the suckers 19 and plate 27 and moves the handle 34 to its extreme right-hand position as viewed in Fig. 4, thereby holding the last by suction applied through the fiexible .ipe 22, while the margin-suckingdevlces lea ing to the plate 28 remain inactive.

Preferably at the same time and by another operator, the upper 29 is laid upon the plates 62, 63, and positioned with respect to the gauge blocks 62d, 63d, the suckers 47, 48, 49 are actuated to hold the uppers toe margin, by throwing the handle 53 to the -left as viewed in Fig. 1, and the heel portions of the upper are pulled down over the edges of the respective heel stretchers 72, 73 and anchored adhesively to their vertically disposed fabric facings 72, 73". The upper is thus held in a generally Hat conditlon, without wrinkles.

The driving clutch 1()8-109a is then thrown in, either by lifting the handle 112 at the rear of the machine or depressing the treadle 111a at the front, and continues to be held in by the latch pawl 116.

The cam drum being thus driven, the cams 134, 135 simultaneously run from under the arms 70, 71, permitting the upper supporting plates to drop away, while the interrupted gear 43, through the pitman 40, swings the last downward onto the upper, where it is stopped, with the clamping member 16 yieldingly bearing against it, by the said interrupted gear passing out of mesh with the pitman gear 41 and the stud 128 catching in the notch of the pawl 130. The cams 136, 137 at this time initiate the movement of the heel stretchers as above described, the release of the arms 70, 71 from their cam at the same time permitting the plunger-s 81, 82a tobe withdrawn by their springs 85, 86, so that as they start their movement aboutI the heel of the last the heel stretchers snap from horizontal to vertical position, on their ivots 72b, 73, twisting the heel portions of) the uppers into appropriate positions to be app ied progressively to the last by the further, heretofore described movement of the heel-stretchers.

As such further movement of the heel stretchers is effected, simultaneously at the start and then in succession, the several cams and springs as above described actuate the trimming knife 89 totrim the two heel margins successively and then the seam-roller 102 to roll the lapped seam which is formed by the successive straightening out of the bent seam-margins of the upper by the final,

short, margin-applying movements of the respective -heel stretchers represented by the cam faces 137'1, 1364.

The downward movement of the last into association with the upper, and the4 heel stretcher movements described, apply t-he upper smoothly to the last, the suckers 47 49 being swung inward by vthe pull of the upper so that ,the latter is ,applied under substantially uniform tension about the toe, and the course of the heel stretchers is such that the same eii'ect is obtained at the heel.

After the upper has been so applied, the stud 36 on the disc 37 (Fig. 4) strikes the stud 35 on the lever' 34, applying suction to the sole margin of the upper through the plate 28, drawing said margin snugly about the sole-edge of the adhesively covered last and so anchoring it there, as shown in Fig. 6the suckers 19 also continuing to function.

At approximately the same time that the suction is thus applied to the sole margin through the plate 28 and preferably slightly before such time, as will be apparent in View of the relative positions of the studs or lugs 36 and 55 in Fig. 2, rotation of the shaft 38 causes the lug 55, through intermediate parts, to shut the valve 52 (Fig. 1), breaking the suction in the suckers 47, 49, which are then swung away from the last by theirl springs, 47", 49b (Fig. 10). The cam 133 then releases, and the interrupted gear 43 again drives, the pitman gear 4l, raising the last supporting arm to its initial position, while the return movements of the heel stretchers and last-supporting plates are effected, as above described.

The cycle of automatic operations being thus completed, and the drum 44 having returned to its starting position, the stud 126 on said drum contacts the arm125 and there- `by causes the withdrawal of the latch-pawl 116, permitting the spring 113"L to `throw out the drive clutch and stop the machine. The finished work is then released, by throwing the handlever 34 to the extreme left as viewed in Fig. 4, and said work removed, and the cycle of operations as described is repeated'.

Mv invention is susceptible of various modification without sacrifice of all of the advantages thereof, and I do not wholly limit my claims to the exact construction or procedure described.

I claim:

1. The method of making footwear which comprises holding in a spread condition in a determinate position an'upper having heelwing portions, determinately lowering a last thereonto, inverted, so as to stretch the upper about the toe portion of the last by the force of the moving last, and thereafter twisting the heel-win portions of the upper into substantial para] elism with the last and then swinging them about the heel portion o-f the last to 4apply them progressively thereto.

2. The method of building footwear upon a last which comprises holding a piece `of stock in a determinate position and in spread- 'condition lowering the last thereonto, inverted, while holding the last by suction vapplied to its sole face, and somoving the last as to cause said 'stock to conform thereto.

3. The method of building footwear upon a last which'comprisesap'plying the toe portion of an upper shoe part to the last, swinging a heel portion of said part about Vthe heel portion-ofthe last to apply it progreslast to applyx sively theretfr'nptoits` heel seammargin,

and theniapplying Vsaid margin to-the last by a wiping action on its outer face, directed toward the heel seam edge of said margin.v

4. Themethod of building footwear upon a last which comprises applying a portionof a lastfwhich comprises applying -an--upper shoe part to the last with its ,marginsex-4 tending pastpthe s ole" of the last, and drawing its free1 sole-margin portions inward about the sole-edge by suction.

6. The method of buliding footwear upon a last which comprises holding apiece ofv Y shoe stock against a stock-manipulating member by suction applied to its outer face and pulling it onto the last by relative movement between the last andthe st'ock-manipu. lating member. f

7. lApparatus a last, said apparatus comprising .means for holding an upper shoe part in a determinate position and in spread condition, means con'- straned to move in a determinate course for holding a last inverted and lowering it onto said part, and `means for twisting theheel portions of said part and swinging them aboutthe last to apply them progressively thereto.

8. Apparatus for building footwear .upon a last, said .l apparatus comprising means for holding a piece of stock. in a determinate position and in spread condition, and suction 'means adapted to engage the bottom of a 4last to hold itr'inverted, the said means being movably mounted for lowering the last onto said piece of stock.

9. Apparatus v'forbuilding footwear upon' alest, said apparatus comprising means for applying the toe portion of an upper shoe part' to the last, means for swinging a"he e l portion of said part about the heel portion of the last to apply it progressively thereto upto the heel seam margin, means be-I forbuilding footwear upon ing adapted, by further movement to apply said heel seam margin by pressing it against the last.

10. Apparatus for building footwear upon a last, said apparatus comprising means for applying a portion of an adhesive piece of stock to the last, means for so swinging its free portion about the last as to apply it progressively, thereto up to a margin of said piece, said means being adapted by further movement to apply'said margin to the last.

l 1-1. Apparatus for building footwear upon a last, said apparatus comprising means for' applying a portion of an adhesive piece of stockto the last,"stockpulling means. for swinging said stock about the last to apply itprogressively thereto, and means for trimlming said marginal portion before the latter is applied to the last and while it is held by said stock-pulling means.

12. Apparatus for bulding footwear upon a'last, said apparatus comprising means for supporting the last with an upper shoe part thereon having a margin projecting past the sole of the last, and vacuum means vfor suck- Elu ing said margin about the sole-edge of the last.

13. Apparatus for building footwear upon a last, said apparatus comprising means for holding. a piece of shoe stock by suction, `and hmelfns for introducing it to the last while so 14. Apparatus for building footwear, said i apparatus comprising means for holding a spread upper in a fixed position to receive a last, and means for presenting a last'to'said upper and-so moving the last as to cause the upper to'conform thereto about the toe portion ofthe last, parts of the upper-holding'means being .adaptedthereafter to swing the heel portions 4of the upper about the heel portion o'f the last to applythem progressively thereto.

f l5. A shoe making machine comprising. -means engaging the margins of an upper s hoe part to hold it spread in a fixed position, means for lowering an--inverted last Conto said part, andy-means for supporting themiddle portion of said part, the last said means being adapted-'to move eut of the way of the last as the latter approaches.

16. A shoe making machine comprising means engaging the margins of an'upper shoe part to'hold it spread in a fixed position, means for lowering an inverted -last .onto said part, and av pair of pivoted members'adapted to support the middle portion of said part and to be -swung downward and out of the way of the last as the latter approaches.

i'io

l17. A shoe .making machine comprising.

"means for holding a piece of' shoe stock in a l.fixed positioma pvoted arm adapted -to be swung from and towardA said position,

means on said arm adapted to hold a last in an inverted position by engagement with the latters sole face only, and a lastformed to receive shoe-building material on its solef face, the last-holding means being adapted for quick-detachable assembly with the last.

18. A shoe making machine comprising means for holding a piece of shoe stock in a fixed position, a pivotedarm adapted to be swung from and toward said positiion,

-anda member on said arm adapted to hold a last by suction applied to the sole face of the last.`

19. A shoe making machine comprising means for holding a piece of shoe stock in a fixed position, a pivoted arm adapted to be' swung from and toward said position, means on said arm adapted tohold a last by engagement with its sole portion, and suction means on said arm adapted to suck a `piece of shoe stock about the sole edge of a last, said apparatus comprising means adapted to receive an upper shoe part in a spread condition and hold the same by engagement with its toe margin, and a roller structure adjacent said margin holding means and adapted to act as a guide roller for said part asfthe latter is tensioned by a last moving past said roller structure.

22. Apparatus for building footwear, said 4apparatus comprising a pair of yieldingly held structures so disposed as to receive a spread upper shoe part and hold the margin thereof and to yie d toward each other as said part is pulled byY a last movin be tween them, and uiding means positioned between them ang adapted to permit the passage of the last `and to support the part adjacent its margin as it is so pulled. y

23. Apparatus for building footwear, said apparatus comprisin a pair of yieldingly held structures so disposed as to receive a spread upper shoe part and hold the margin thereof and to yield Ytoward each other as Ysaid part lis pulled by a last moving between them, a U-curved axle member supported by its end portionsbetween said structures and adapted to underlie said part around the latters toe margin, and a flexible roller structure mounted on said axle memberI and adapted to roll thereon, upon a curved axis.

21. Apparatus for building footwear upon- 24. Apparatus for building footwear, said apparatus comprising a pair of yieldingly held structures so disposed as to receive a spread upper shoe part and hold the margin thereof and to yield toward each other as said part ispulled by a last moving between them,y a U-curved axle member supported by its end portions between said structures and adapted to underlie said part around the latters toe margin, and means journaled' on said -axle member so that said part may run on said means as said part is pulled y by said last.

25. Apparatus for building footwear upon a last, said apparatus comprisingan upper-pulling structure of suoli unvarying U- form as to lie about the toe portion of a last adjacent the latters sole, means for holding an upper shoe part in spread condition adjacent said structure, and means for presenting a last to said part and so moving it with relation to said structure asto'cause said part to be stretched over the toe portion ofthe last by said structure.

26. In apparatus for making footwear, a stock-manipulating structure comprising a curved axle member, a helical spring running helically-about and journaled for relative rotation upon said axle member, and atube of Y flexible material mounted on said spring.

27. In apparatus for making footwear,"y a stock stretching structure oomprisinga plate, a pair of suction members pivoted on said plate for sliding' movement along its face and adapted to hold the/margin of a piece of stock by suction',- vs rings urging Said members away from eacli pivots, and stops opposed to said springs.

28. In footwear-making apparatus, a heell stretcher comprising a member adapted to anchor the heel margin of an upper shoe part, said member being formed, along the zone of said parts attachment, with a. face adapted to serve as a backing for the stock against which the lattermay be cut.

29. In footwear-making apparatus lthe combination of a last, means for supporting' the same, a heel stretcher com rising a' mem- "risv other, about their -I ber adapted to anchor the hee margin of an upper shoe part, said member being lformed, a ong the zone of said parts attachment, with a face adapted to serve as a backing for the stock against which the latter may be cut, means for turning said member from a receivin position to an applying position substantie-,1y at right angles thereto and moving it about said last to apply said part progressively thereto, a knife, and means for running said knife o nsaid stock-backing face, when said member is in a determinate position with relation to the last.

30. In -foot-wearing-making apparatus the combination of a last, means for supporting the same a heel stretcher comprising a member adapted to anchor the heel margin of an upper shoe part, said member being formed, along the` zione of said parts attachment, with a face adapted to serve as a backing for the stock against which thelatter may be cut, means for turning said a yieldingly-impelled structure constituting the mounting"'for said knife-supporting member. 31. In apparatus for making footwear, the

combination of means for supporting a last and a seam rolling device, the latter comprising -a yieldingly impelled structure, a-rollersupporting member slidably mounted on said structure, and a seam roller journaled on said roller-supporting member. 32. In apparatus vfor making footwear, the combination of means for supporting a last, a trimming device including a knife adapted to be run along the heelseam portion of stock upon said last, ay seam roller adapted to be so run, the mountings fol` said knife and said seam roller each com adapted to be so run, the mountings for said knife and said seam roller each comprising a pivoted struct-ure, such structures eing adapted'to'be swung in succession from op osite f sides of. the work, to bring their too s into operation upon approximately the same part of the work.

34. In apparatus ffor making footwear upon a last, a stock manipulating devicel comprising a member having a face adapted substantially'to fit a portieri ofthe last, an adjacent stock-anchoring face, and, between the two said faces, a face adapted to serve as a cutting plate. v y

A 35. Iny apparatus for making footwear upon la last, the combination of a stockmani ulating member having a face adapt- -ed su stantially to fit a part of the last, an

adjacent stock-anchoring face, and between the two said faces, a face adapted to serve as a cutting-plate, means for so swinging said member about a part of the last. as progressively toapply to the latter a piece of stock anchored by said member and to bring said member adjacent the face of the last, and means for further moving said member, along the face of the last, so as to straighten out and apply to the last a margin of said stock resulting from the trimming of the latter against said cuttin -plate face.

36. A machine for ma ing footwear, said machine comprising an arm for swinging a last, a pitman for actuating said arm, a gear for actuating said pitman, a mutilated gear for intermittently driving the first said gear,

and means for preventing substantial turning of the first said gear while it is out of mesh With the second mentioned gear.

37 .IA machine for making footwear, said last, a pitman for actuating said arm, a gear for actuating said pitman, a mutllated gear for intermittently drivin the first said gear,

a pawl for preventing su stantial turning of the rst said gear while it is out of mesh with the second mentioned gear, and a cam movin with said second mentioned gear for retracting said pawl as the' gears remesh.

38. A machine for makin footwear, said machine comprising means or supporting a last, a heel-stretcher adapted to receive and hold the heel portionv of a spread upper shoe part in a plane substantially parallel to the sole of. the last, to twist it into substantial parallelism with the side fac'e of the last and swing it about the last to ap ly it progressively thereto, a transverse shaft adjacent the heel portion of the last and an arm pivotally and slidably mounted on said shaft and constituting a mounting'for said heel-stretcher. 39. A machine for making footwear, said machine comprising means for supporting a last, a heel-stretcher adapted to receive and hold the heel portion of a spread upper shoe part in a plane substantially4 paral el to the sole Aof the'last, to twist it into substantial parallelism with the'side face Iof the last and swing it about the last to applly it rogressively thereto, a transverse s aft a ja.- cent the eel portion of the last, anV arm 1votally and slidably mountedon said s aft and constituting a mountingfor s aidr heelstretcher, yieldin means urging said arm toward the last, a out said* shaft, and away from the longitudinal middle plane of the last, along said shaft and cam means for actuating said arm against thel force of said yielding means.

40. A machine machine comprising A last and an upper s oe part into contact and wrapping sai part about the last, includfor making footwear, said ing suction applying means for manipulat" ing said art, a rotatable drum, and means 4on said rum for actuating the several instrumentalities in timed relation.

means for bringing a ,machine comprising an arm for swinging a 41. A machine for making footwear, said machine comprising means for bringing a last and an upper shoe part into contact and wrapping said part about the last, means for trimming said part in the course of its application to the last, a rotatable drum, and means on said drum for actuating the several instrumentalities in timed relation.

42. A machine for making footwear, said machine comprising means for bringing a last and an upper shoe part into contact and wrapping said part about the last and joining its heel margins in a lapped seam, a heel seam roller, a rotatable drum, and means on said drum foractuating the several instrumentalities in timed relation.

43.v A machine for making footwear, said machine comprising means for bringing a last and an upper shoe part into contact and Wrapping said part about the last and joining its. heel margins in a lapped seam, a tool, a tool-support slidably mounted for movement of the tool along the heel seam portion of the last, a pivoted structure consituting a mounting for said tool-support and adapted to be swung into and out of operative position, a rotatable drum, and contact means on said drum for driving said tool support when the latter is in operative position.

44. A machine for making footwear, said machine comprising stock-anchoring means for holding an upper shoe part in a. determinate position and in spread condition, last-holdmg means adapted to present a last to said part while the latter is so held, means `adapted to support the middle portion of said part and towithdraw therefrom upon the approach of the last, means for swinging the heel portions of said part about the heel portion of the last to apply themprogressively thereto and join their edges, means for trimming said heel portions in the course of their application, means for rolling the heel seam, a vrotatable drum, and means on said drum for actuating the several instrumentalities in timed relation.

45. In apparatus for making footwear upon a last, upper applying devices including a pair of heel stretchers, Veach of said heel stretchers comprising a stock-anchoring member adapted to be swung about the last to apply. an upper shoe part progressively thereto up to a heel-seam margin of said part and by a further movement along the face of the last to strai hten and apply said margin to the last, and means for actuating said heel stretchers in succession so as to join said parts heel margin in a lapped seam.

46. Apparatus for making footwear, said apparatus comprising means for holding a spread upper shoe part in position to receive a last, last-holding means for lowering a last onto said part by engagement with the lasts sole portion only and a yielding member adapted to receive, and to give under the pressure of, the shank of the last as it is so presented to said part.

47. Apparatus for building footwear, said apparatus comprising means for holding an upper shoe part in a latcondition in a determinate position, means for supporting a last out of contact with the part so held, and means for so moving one of the said means with relation to the other as to cause the said part to be introduced to the last and applied thereto in a determinate position thereon, said holding means comprising a guide adapted for the said part to run thereover toward the last and hold-back means for tensioning the part as the latter is drawn over the said guide by the relative movement of the last.

48. A machine for making footwear, said machine comprising means, including a pair of heel stretchers, for receiving and holding an upper shoe part in spread condition, means for presenting a last to said part as it is so held, means for so moving said heel stretchers aste apply the heel portions of said part progressively to the last, a rotatable drum, and means on said drum for actuating the several instrumentalities in timed relation.

49. Inapparatus for building footwear, the combination of a last, means adapted to hold the latter by suction applied to a face thereof, and means adapted to shape a piece of shoe stock about said last while the latter is so held.

50. In apparatus for building footwear, a structure comprising suction means adapted to hold a last by suction applied to the latters sole face, and suction'means for drawing the sole margin of an u per shoe art inward about the sole edge o the last w ile the last is held by the first said suction means.

51. In apparatus for building footwear, a structure comprising suction means adapted to hold a last by suction applied to the latters sole face, suction means for drawing the sole'margin of an upper shoe part inward about the sole edge of the last while the last is held by the first said suction means. and.

actuating means common to the two said'suction means.

52. In a machine for making footwear, a master drum adapted to represent one cycle of the operation of the machine by one revolution of the same, an upper supporting and manipulating device, a last supporting and manipulating device, a knife, a rolling down device, means on the drum for operating said devices in sequence, and means for controlling and rotating said drum.

In witness whereof I have hereunto set my hand this 6th day of April, 1923.

FRANK J. MACDONALD.

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